This Week's Must-Try Wines from Vinous
Château Rieussec
Sauternes Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2010
The 2010 Rieussec is similar to the previous bottle a couple of years ago. It has since opened with saffron-tinged honeyed fruit, dried honey and almond shavings. This example is more vanillary and oaky than previous ones, and that actually distracts from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied; again, the new oak feels more prominent than previous bottles, prompting me to lower my score. It's utterly seductive but articulates more of the winemaking than I would like. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Cheval Blanc
St. Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2008
The 2008 Cheval Blanc is one of the go-to wines of the vintage. Now at 15 years old, it has retained the energy and focus it displayed from the outset: black fruit, crushed stone, wilted violet petals and touches of forest floor cohere wonderfully in the glass. The Cabernet here is more expressive. The palate has a slight chewiness on the entry, but it "relaxes" in the glass. It shows off its delicate lattice of tannins and perhaps a bit more backbone than I have observed on previous bottles. It's very intense on the finish where, as before, the Cabernet Franc takes charge. Superb. Keep it another three to four years if you can. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Léoville-Las Cases
Grand Vin de Leoville du Marquis de las Cases Saint-Julien Red Bordeaux Blend 2009
The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has beguiling symmetry, perfectly poised with a peacock's tail on the finish. Just a fabulous Saint-Julien. Tasted at the Bordeaux versus Stellenbosch dinner in South Africa. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Giscours
Margaux Red Bordeaux Blend 1966
The 1966 Giscours is a wine I have drunk twice or three times before, though never from magnum. This was a golden age for the estate. It has a classic nose for a 1966 Left Bank: black fruit, freshly rolled tobacco, antique bureau and maybe just a hint of curry leaf. Still fresh and unashamedly conservative in style, the palate is beautifully balanced with fine weight and density. It has lost its florality, perhaps now a little more delicate than I recall, yet tremendous in terms of length with veins of blue fruit toward the finish. Utterly divine. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall for The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide dinner. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Léoville-Las Cases
Grand Vin de Leoville du Marquis de las Cases Saint-Julien Red Bordeaux Blend 1990
Tasting the 1990 Léoville Las Cases just a few days after the 1989, it is clear which is the best vintage…this one. It has a sublime nose of melted black fruit, tar, cedar and bay leaf that shrugs off the heat of that summer better than most others. At 33 years of age, you could just lose yourself in these aromatics. The palate is clearly holding up well: beautifully defined and supple yet with typical Las-Cases backbone and depth. It builds magnificently in the glass toward a harmonious finish that reminds me of the 1985 in terms of its fleshiness. Wonderful. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Lafleur
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend 2006
The 2006 Lafleur is a vintage that I have not encountered for a little while. It is similar to how it tasted at a decade old with wild strawberry, blackberry and hints of cooked meat on the nose, still pretty backward and needing time to meld fully. The palate is medium-bodied with still a slightly coarse entry that I don't think would be accepted by Baptiste Guinaudeau today, slightly tarry toward a dense and somewhat muscular finish. Maybe it's just missing Lafleur's usual charm? Yet it's still an impressive Pomerol that requires more cellaring. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall for The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide dinner. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Rayas
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grenache 2007
The 1995 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is served blind. I was unsure about the cleanliness of the aromatics here, although they coalesce with time, red berry fruit, singed leather and a light dried blood tincture. There's a touch of nail varnish in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a dash of balsamic, a little disjointed at first, but it gains harmony in the glass with plenty of Morello cherry and wild strawberry toward the finish. Fine, though the 2007 showed better two days earlier. Tasted at Burns & German's dinner to celebrate The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide book at Medlar. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château La Conseillante
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend 2015
The 2015 La Conseillante is entertaining the idea of drinkability, though I would personally cellar mine for another couple of years. It is gorgeous on the nose and offers precocious truffle-infused black fruit, maybe a little glossy in style. The palate has a cashmere texture, pliant tannins, tremendous weight and depth without the mineralité that renders the 2016 or 2020 more exciting long-term propositions. Nevertheless, this is a wonderful Pomerol with a long future head. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Château Beauséjour
Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse Saint-Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2009
The 2009 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse has been eulogized elsewhere, but returning to this vintage after four years, it's a very good Saint-Émilion rather than a great one. It has a typically ripe and exotic bouquet with a heavy carapace of new oak that doesn't feel completely welded to the fruit. Certainly, there is immense concentration, which will appeal if that's your metric. The palate is intense and structured with layered black fruit, high-toned but lacking complexity. It has a hedonistic allure, and there is a fine grip, notwithstanding that it develops more nuance in the glass. Maybe give it another four to five years? Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago
Delectable Wine
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The 1982 Léoville Poyferré is a vintage that I have not seen for a while. This bottle is splendid. It is Ferrous on the nose and offers wilted rose petals, asphalt and pencil shavings, now firmly into its secondary aromatic phase yet maintaining impressive delineation and freshness. Maybe a little rustic compared to recent vintages, yet charming. The palate is very well balanced, and there is a touch of Brettanomyces that would be understandable given the warmth of the growing season. Cedar and graphite flourish toward the finish. This is at a peak now, and as I averred before, I would drink these sooner unless you have larger formats on your hands. Tasted at Burns & German's dinner to celebrate The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide book at Medlar. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2023)
— 4 months ago