Back to School Wines 101

I feel a little weird and a touch nervous writing this. The purpose is to give some suggestions, some—dare I say—guidance? About what wines to KNOW if you are just getting into wine. The ones I and/or others consider essential. This list is likely highly subjective. I confess I am probably letting my own preferences honk the horn, if not take the wheel. That being said, there are classic wines in here that are not my cup of cold brew, as well as ones that are. Is my inclusion of Zinfandel and exclusion of Cabernet Franc due to personal preferences, or due to Cab Sauv and Sauvignon Blanc already being good examples of pyrazines? Probably a little of both. I left out the Rhône but kept in Provençal Rosé and Argentinean Malbec—why? Because I can’t include everything. I’ve given myself some grace calling this 101. Expect a Back to School 201 next semester—the wines to take you to level two of wine-con grape-watch. How did I order this? Initially, it was by what comes up first in textbooks, then by my preference then I randomized it all so no one category is more important than the other. And I’d actually love to hear some feedback from you on what you think I did right and where I went wrong—and what wines to include in 201! Oh, and also, I’ve been forgetting to include shower picks—so scroll to the end to know what studied wine I’d take into the spray with me, both to memorize it and to chill out and remember that wine is for pleasure, no matter how much you know. CHARDONNAY: CHABLIS AND CALIFORNIA Sure, I could say, start with Montrachet, but Chablis is a Chardonnay that will stand in stark relief against a California example of the grape—I was going for maximum contrast. Also, the more Chardonnay styles you know, the more you may realize that the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) movement is poppycock aimed at only one style of this wildly changeable variety. 2022 Samuel Billaud Chablis Delish, delight—killer quality for price. Lemon-golden hue. Orchard fruits and linen napkins nose. Bosc pear and candied lemon peel come through on the palate plus citrus, lemon zest and juice, all hinting at stony minerals and chamomile flowers. It’s an ivory high heel—practical but also sophisticated and necessary. The Hilt Santa Rita Hills Estate Chardonnay A gorgeous wine. It’s a bit brooding but also fresh, like me as a goth teen. The nose speaks to the seaside—all sea salt on top of butterscotch, quince, and ripe lemon. The palate is silky but with a hint of grip, bringing in salted melon, dried apple, vanilla bean paste, and…kiwi? Yeah, just a hint. It’s beautifully balanced and elegant. A wine I’d honestly put on my shelves year-round as both an everyday sipper (if I had that budget), but more likely as a special occasion pour. It exemplifies what Santa Rita Hills can do for Bourgogne varieties. MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC Why not the Savvy B’s of Sancerre, Bordeaux, California or Chile? Because New Zealand’s Marlborough produces the most SB-est of SBs. Pungent, stylistically, to a point that for a while some may have looked away from them. But well-made New Zealand examples show the grape’s idiosyncrasies in shining colors. 2022 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc The nose brings gooseberry, greens and a hint of ashtray smoke (in a good way). The palate is brightly acidic with a compelling texture to the body—this wine has life! The flavors you’ll run through run tropical—all the passion fruit and guava a girl could wish for with grapefruit slicing through and minerality and smoke grounding it. It finishes a touch floral, a touch petrichor. TUSCAN SMORGASBORD: Chianti , Brunello , and Super Tuscans To know Tuscany is to know…well, Tuscany. There are myriad subregions and appellations you could deep dive into, but in my humble opinion, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and a Super Tuscan are good entry points to both the history and the wines of the area. Chianti Classico will be mostly Sangiovese, Brunello will be 100% Sangiovese, and Super Tuscans vary from bottle to bottle—the one I most recently sampled had significant Merlot meanderings. 2020 Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico A very fresh nose, bringing blueberries and balsamic, red plums and raspberry. Chewy but slightly chalky ripe tannins. The palate gets quite herbal on top of violets, more plums, purple plums, red plums, and plummy plums…which tracks through the finish. 2018 Cortonesi La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino So very young, I know, but this is one for now and onwards. Magnificently plum skin-y nose along with violets, and a certain degree of funk bordering on red wine vinegar but not yet. More elegant than that. The palate is expansive—giving tart plum, baking spice, ripe cherries, licorice and more all at once, then in waves. Almost hinting at balsamic, but it feels too elegant to couch in with vinegar. The Blackberry vanilla bean jam (without the sweetness) finish is genius. If this were clothing, it would be a deep blue evening gown with a hint of Fuschia iridescence, one-shouldered, with a full skirt that flows, a small train flowing behind. BORDEAUX MERLOT AND CALI CAB OR CALI MERLOT AND BORDEAUX CAB Ideally both varieties from both regions, tbh. But this is a beginners’ course, and I think Bordeaux Merlot has been neglected—okay all Merlot has been neglected—since Sideways. And Bordeaux makes some of the best so let’s start there. 2020 Chateau Les Graviëres Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Quite delicious in that red currant-stuffed pencil box kind of way (and wouldn’t that make for a fun lunchbox scenario—just put your fruit in with the pencils and be on your way). It’s also truly Christmas-y candle potpourri vibes that almost turn me off, but it works well enough being lifted by herbal savory vibes and a bit of tobacco. Subtly nubbly tannins and a surprisingly lithe body make for an easy-sipping but thoughtful Merlot. 2019 Frank Family Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 1% Merlot, and boy I definitely catch the PV. There’s a strong spice and not un-generous vine-y peppery pyrazine factor here, which is cool because it offsets the richness of the fruit—blackcurrant, redcurrant, blackberry fun—and the oak-derived vanilla bean and cinnamon/allspice sweetness (in flavor not in actual sugar levels). All the same, there is an energy to this: brusk but integrated tannins, high but not scorching alcohol, and a glamourous finish lingering on the fruit and vanilla factor. Yummy. Generally, I want a Cab only with food, but I can sip this solo. PINOT NOIR: OREGON AND BURGUNDY The Pinot Noir variety rivals Cab for the first wine I’d want you to familiarize yourself with. Know it in France. Try and know it in California—but the differences of Cali Pinot vary SO widely from Santa Barbara to Sonoma to Anderson Valley so—that’s Back to School 201. So, I decided to start you with Burgundy and Oregon—was this the right choice? You tell me. 2019 Maison Chanzy Rully En Rosey Rully, a region in the Côte Chalonnaise, is becoming a go-to for quality Pinot that doesn’t cost as much as the vaunted Côte d’Or. This one is maybe a bit young, but gives all the fun Burgundy vibes you could want from cherry cola to forest floor and a touch of baking spice. The palate is super fresh with lively acidity and fine-grained tannins, bringing in a touch of texture. It’s not THE most complex of Burgundy Pinots, but if you are new to the game, it’ll give you a sneak preview of what’s to come. Vanilla-cherry coke finish in the woods. 2017 Appassionata Allegro Pinot Noir Dundee Hills delight. Elegance bar none. Par none? The nose brings both black cherry and umeboshi plum and vanilla, subtly. On the tongue, it is all I want from a classic (read Old World) structure: vibrant acid, SEAMLESS but present tannins, and available-for-interviews alcohol. It also brings in the palate that, like my favorite Oregon Pinots skews old and new world. There’s ripe red fruit but also some earth. Could you swill this wine and be like yeah good? Yes. But it is a wine that rewards a slow sip. Richly. BAROLO I know, I know, Italy has so many regions so why am I only recommending wines from Tuscany (see above) and the Piemonte? In all truth, it’s because I love them. And also—they are the big names. Yes, PLEASE drink Sicily, drink Taurasi, drink friggin’ Gaglioppo from Calabria, guzzle Lambrusco…but first get your hands on some Barolo. And I know, I know, this is infanticide…but… 2019 Pio Cesare Barolo …and yet this is tremendously delicious now. It’s kinda the Pinot Noir of Barolos—lots of red fruit, hints of herbs and cola—but then it's so much more. There are the silky but overt tannins, the tremendous rose-iness of aromas and underlying sherry vinegar vibes making it all more. Tar and roses? This one is more licorice and roses and cherries, and the finish goes on pulling out bits and bobs of all the aforementioned flavors/aromas. RIOJA (preferably with some age on it) Why is this so important? For starters, it’s unique—Tempranillo-based wines (as Riojas most frequently are) are not around every corner outside of Spain. Then there’s the fact that American oak is a popular pick, as opposed to most famous wines’ French oak. Unique wine. Great wine. Try it. 2015 Ramón Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva Really lovely classic Rioja. 90% Tempranillo, 5% each Mazuelo and Graciano. The nose comes in strong with red plums and an abundance of cedar and coconut. The palate brings dusty tannins—it feels a touch rustic in a pleasant way. More ripe red cherry and almost red wine and balsamic vinegar vibes accented with vanilla bean pleasure. The acid kicks in just enough to keep things bright, even if the American oak notes speak up. This toes the line of sophistication and wild-child nicely. PROVENÇAL ROSÉ Are there Rosés I love better? Yes and no. But a GOOD Provençal Rosé is like keys to the Rosé kingdom. Level two would be Tavel—which you can find more about here . But let’s start here. 2022 Peyrassol Reserve des Templier Rosé 30% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Vermentino Not the palest of pink—it has a healthy blush. The nose is on point, bring amplified roses, wet stones, raspberries and more. The mouthfeel is at the same time unctuous (for a Rosé) but has a really rousing nibble of acidity and tannic grip, the flavors echoing the aromas with additional pink grapefruit flesh and zest. Supes refresh. Supes chill. Supes sophisticated and a great entryway to fine Rosé. MALBEC Yes, I am including Malbec as an essential if nothing else for the prominence it helped bring to Argentina, where it can excel in the right hands. Not included here but always and forever I’m a fan of the work of Laura Catena whether in Catena Zapata or Luca. But as for my recent tastings, this was a fave: 2020 Argento Estate Collection Malbec Deep purple-y…purple, smelling of purple plums and prunes (yes technically those are plums) and raspberries and vanilla. The palate brings in a tart element to all that ripeness and richness, a sort of balsamic nip. Ripe-rich tannins provide good texture, giving the saturation of the fruit-friendly texture, leading to a cocoa-tinged finish. CHAMPAGNE AND CO Yes, YES try grower champagne, and YES drink the tête de cuvées—I’ll never deter someone from a nice friendly bottle of Cristal or Bollinger La Grand Année. But I’m gonna start you with some traditional method (the way Champagne is made) options outside of the region itself, then close out with a real Champagne from a house whose vintage Champagnes will blow your mind but whose substantially more handle-able price bottlings will turn your head all the same. First, the traditional not-Champers bubbles: 2016 Rotari Brut Platinum Trentodoc The Trento DOC was established in 1993 and was styled as the Trentodoc in 2007. It’s Champagne varietals well-made in northern Italy. This particular one is a Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend that spend 24 months sur lie, and boy-howdy is it toasty and toffee-y as can be. It’s rich, slightly nutty, somewhat nectarine and plummy and for the wealth of rich flavors. The acidity and very vital bubbles liven it up. A steal, to be honest. 2015 Roederer Estate L’Ermitage A USA tête du cuvée via an actual Champagne house—Roederer’s work in Anderson Valley! 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir with 4.9% of reserves from 2010, 2012 and 2014. Golden in hue. Caramel toast nose with citrus hints. The palate is creamy effervescence, bright with quince and overripe citrus like the innocence of 2015, but rich with the knowledge of the ages after—brioche, toasty notes, butterscotch and pecan pie, but dry. Magnificent. And now the true Champers: NV Champagne Palmer Brut Reserve Based in Reims! I actually went to a full-on Palmer dinner recently, and if you can get your hands on the 1996 vintage, or the…well, I was bowled over. This is the more base level, but it exemplifies what great Champagne does despite it being a “young” house of 75 years. Toasty white bread and apple butter on the nose. The palate brings in citrus and creamy notes—sort of lemon or lime freeze vibes (without the sweetness) with an English muffin on the side, as if my former Steak n’ Shake method became alcoholic and amazing. I want this in my glass nightly. SWEET AND DRY RIESLING Of course, it matters. OBVIOUSLY, it matters where Riesling comes from. But if you are just getting to know Riesling, try one dry from wherever and…okay well Germany should get the sweet glory. I did just (just?) write some Riesling articles including an Old World v New rundown plus an exploration of Germany’s sweet renditions . So there go the sweet German recs, then get into New York Rieslings for drier options! 2021 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling I’ve been a fan of this winery for a while, and New York has really made a name for itself in the last several years for their work with the Riesling. This one has a slightly diesel nose in a way that I want to sniff more, like rubber cement but way better because I can drink this too. Never tried drinking glue, but still cannot recommend it. It also brings a citrusy front underscored by honeysuckle with a palate of acidity and rip-roaring minerality—I know that’s an obtuse term but taste the wine yourself and tell me if you have a better descriptor. It’s riverstones AF. 2020 Anthony Road Finger Lakes Riesling Okay so this isn’t bone-dry, in fact the label identifies it as medium sweet. Maybe it’s the acid counterbalancing it, but in a blind taste I’d be more likely to put it in the medium dry category—too sweet to be off-dry but just tilting at medium sweet. Anyway. The nose gives all those fun petrol-y green apple fun time vibes plus honeysuckle. The body brings in a bit of silky weight and coaxes out Asian pear, mandarin orange, and orange blossom water joy, all washed down with your own saliva (in a good way) because gosh that acid is potent. The finish lingers subtly bringing back the fresh apple and orange blossom notes. ZINFANDEL Would a wine writer outside of the States count Zin as essential? Maybe not. But it had a chief role in making me, and at least a friend or so fall for wine, so into my essential wine starter pack it goes. 2015 Meyye Palachchak Zinfandel Hailing from the Shenandoah Valley! Palachchak means “acorn woodpecker” in Coast Miwok, in homage to winemaker Rob Campbell’s Native American roots as a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria. And seeing as (despite coming from Croatia), Zin is considered a quintessentially American staple, I think having an example made by a Native American is all the more appropriate. The nose broods with rich red fruit and cordials, brimming with cedar and spice, and finishing a touch chocolate-y. The palate doubles all that with added licorice appeal and a plethora of raisinated fruit bathing in fresh cranberries—that tartness doesn’t speak up so much as whisper, just enough to keep things fresh throughout all the depth. The tannins are a little sinewy but in a way that makes me think this will go gallantly with some sort of protein. The wine finishes surprisingly fresh, revisiting cherry juice notes. TANK METHOD SPARKLING Traditional gets all the woohoo! But there is a time and place for high-quality tank method bubbles, in which the second fermentation that creates bubbles takes place in a tank before the wine goes to bottles—differing from traditional where that bubbles are made in the bottle. Prosecco gets the short-shrift sometimes, but it’s not all that ubiquitous. The main difference will be that most tank method bubbles will show more fruit-forward primary notes, as opposed to the traditional method toasty signature. NV Zardetto Brut Prosecco Heavy on the orchard fruit—the nose gives bosc pear a-go-go, with lemon zest undercurrents. Zingy but plushy bubbles. The palate echoes on the nose with some added chamomile and white peach. A stand-up example of Prosecco bringing proud Prosecco vibes. Fresh, plush, refreshing, and fruit-forward. Skin Contact I debated leaving this for 201, but what if you are a person in a hip new hood or just a cool person wanting to get into wine without falling all the way down the traditional wine rabbit hole? Please get excited about orange wines—made by allowing white wines extended skin contact time, lending more color, tannins, and unique flavors, as opposed to most white wines who are separated quickly from their skins. Nomadica Orange Resoundingly fruitcake but dry fruitcake aka not sweet. Just potent dried fruit plus a dry nose. Smells like all the random dried things you can’t quite identify but…so we smell that. The palate? Tastes like all the stuff you get on the nose plus grapefruit rind and flesh glamour, and the texture reminds me of a cocktail with a strong citrus rind component. I finish a can and want another. IN CONCLUSION…SHOWER WINE Going back to school, if nothing else, deserves the stress release of a hot shower and a cold wine. What would I take with me to ease my brain muscles and propel me into another day of scholarly pursuits? I’m going with the Oregon Pinot—refreshing enough a red to stand up to the steam and, much as I am inspired to learn more—I feel like Oregon is on the cusp of becoming really wise. Drink up. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Want to read more from Ellen? Check out her recent articles: For Everyone Who Texts Me: Trader Joe’s Picks, You’re Welcome CVIČEK: The Next Summer It-Wine The Rebirth-ish of Sauvignon Blanc Ellen in Lalaland: Pride Month Style Happy Rosé Day…I Mean, Duh You can also listen to Ellen's podcast , The Wine Situation here . Check out her recent transcripts of the Final Five questions: Wine Situation Final Five! Jermaine Stone Wine Situation Final Five! Kristie Tacey