Jean-Michel Guillon
Les Graviers Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Burgundy, France
I'll start of by saying that this is going to be a rant - one about intent and expectations. Don't get me wrong, this was a tasty wine but it got me thinking.
This entry-level Bourgogne took 3 days to uncoil itself. Extreme rubbery reduction when first opened, which pervased through the nose and palate. I tried decanting it, mind you, but to no avail. So back in bottle and fridge it went and day 2, it was the same thing. It was only at the end of day 3 when the wine starting unfurling its dark red fruits, smoky, spicy oak, cocoa, and hints of minerality in the finish. The intensity and texture's quite excellent for a Bourgogne. But really... 3 days for a Bourgogne to show itself. To me, that's way too long. In that time frame, it could have well ended up in a volatile mess.
It begs the question of intent: Did the father and son team intend to make a wine like this? Should a Bourgogne be made ready-to-drink? Should I have expected that? Perhaps this was just on the unlucky end of bottle variation. I don't know. Or maybe the question's about reduction - is it ok? Generally, I don't mind it, but there are cases like this where I would have loved to be able to enjoy the wine there and then - where was the copper coin when I needed it 🤣
NB: Third time having this producer, and I think it's just not my cup to tea. Nevertheless, Guillon's been getting quite a few rave reviews. Les Graviers comes from a vineyard just outside Chambolle. Ripe fruit, partial whole-cluster fermentation, a long maceration, and 100% new oak for aging. I guess the winemaking does give an insight on the intent of this wine 🤔Â
I'll start of by saying that this is going to be a rant - one about intent and expectations. Don't get me wrong, this was a tasty wine but it got me thinking.
This entry-level Bourgogne took 3 days to uncoil itself. Extreme rubbery reduction when first opened, which pervased through the nose and palate. I tried decanting it, mind you, but to no avail. So back in bottle and fridge it went and day 2, it was the same thing. It was only at the end of day 3 when the wine starting unfurling its dark red fruits, smoky, spicy oak, cocoa, and hints of minerality in the finish. The intensity and texture's quite excellent for a Bourgogne. But really... 3 days for a Bourgogne to show itself. To me, that's way too long. In that time frame, it could have well ended up in a volatile mess.
It begs the question of intent: Did the father and son team intend to make a wine like this? Should a Bourgogne be made ready-to-drink? Should I have expected that? Perhaps this was just on the unlucky end of bottle variation. I don't know. Or maybe the question's about reduction - is it ok? Generally, I don't mind it, but there are cases like this where I would have loved to be able to enjoy the wine there and then - where was the copper coin when I needed it 🤣
NB: Third time having this producer, and I think it's just not my cup to tea. Nevertheless, Guillon's been getting quite a few rave reviews. Les Graviers comes from a vineyard just outside Chambolle. Ripe fruit, partial whole-cluster fermentation, a long maceration, and 100% new oak for aging. I guess the winemaking does give an insight on the intent of this wine 🤔Â