Matt Williams

9.4

Highly unusual 100% Pinot Meunier appears straw yellow with tart apple aroma. Medium bubbles back an assertive and acidic wine led by brioche, almond, green apple, and strawberry. Though an extra brut (and strikingly robust), it has a gentle sweetness. Finish lasts a lifetime. — 4 years ago

Matt Williams

9.0

More mellow and bready than the 2009, the last Tête de Cuvée vintage declared. Acids are attenuated though crisp apple still peaks out from behind sweet pear, wheat, and yeast. Sublime micro bubbles as expected from the Étoile series. Good for winter, evening sips, and lightweight chicken or fish pairings. Not the show-stealing stand-alone 2009 or the stunner 2008 tête des têtes. — 4 years ago

Matt Williams

10

Rich, smoky caramel, gentle acid, positively extraordinary — 5 years ago

Matt Williams

8.5

Weird in many ways. Certainly the expected orange tint, but clear with some suspended particulates. More strange are the swirling distortions, presumably stratified layers of undisolved oils or acids. Nose is soapy with apricot and rotten pear. Across the palate it delights with slight effervescence, the fine tingle bolstering the wine’s spriteliness. Oily, perhaps rancid butter? But it’s good? Pear is pronounced. — 5 years ago

Matt Williams

8.8

Delicious nose of blackberry, fig, and distinct cereal. Palate is pomegranate, plum, pepper, and dirt. Big tannins and long finish; still taste it after five minutes. This Aussie’s robust, even for a Malbec. — 4 years ago

Matt Williams

9.7

Mouthwatering bouquet of blueberry crème brûlée. With just one sip it announces itself as large and in charge. Warm vanilla, plum, cherry, caramel, and a satisfying chewiness. What will five more years do? I dare you to wait. Normally I wouldn’t mention this, but I burped some up and it was — honest to god — fabulous. — 4 years ago

Matt Williams

9.5

The wine pours a remarkable amber color, evoking immediately an image of autumn. A mild aroma containing currants, straw, and oak portend complexity and dryness. Indeed, after a brief wash of intense bubbles, dried apricot and overripe strawberry lead fresh wood and supportive minerality. It’s an extraordinary wine in origin, content, and physical manifestation. — 5 years ago

Matt Williams

7.8

Appearance is rich golden with a scientifically-measured assload of tartrates at the bottom. Aroma is apricots, socks, and hospital. Dry and acerbic with moderate tannin, Brda demands thorough chilling. Through the grunge emerges orange peel, dried pineapple, yogurt, and vanilla. This wine is by and for only the most dedicated lovers of orange — those who seek out the grimy little corners of the style for the wines that least conform with popular definitions of “good.” — 4 years ago

Matt Williams

9.6

Smells and tastes like summer. Bouquet of lemon, pear, white flower. Similarly bright and fruity on the palate. Juicy citrus and a little tannic chalk, thanks to four months on the lees. Acid lingers but is pretty well balanced. This is a leading choice for a sessionable white. — 5 years ago

Matt Williams

9.0

Aroma is only slightly sweet smelling of strawberries. Oaky smokey cherry and spicy tannin. Extra chewy. Very entertaining for a Pinot. — 5 years ago