Ten years into the 2003 vintage and I guess the form it's taking now is what it's always going to be. This is actually better than the last few 2003s I've had in that it's not chemically off, but it's not especially appealing either and only distantly tastes like Burgundy. It has very ripe aromatics - surprisingly fruity for its age, and ripe without crossing the line into jamminess or figginess. Instead it's more of a saucy fruit concentration. But none of that fruitiness translates to the palate, which is starting to show a faded patina and really needs some food in order for any of the fruit sweetness to poke through. It's a weird incongruity, aromatics that suggest a wine that's going to be fat and sweet but instead of tasting like a New World pinot, it hews to the general proportions of Burgundy while being hollowed out in the middle.
Ten years into the 2003 vintage and I guess the form it's taking now is what it's always going to be. This is actually better than the last few 2003s I've had in that it's not chemically off, but it's not especially appealing either and only distantly tastes like Burgundy. It has very ripe aromatics - surprisingly fruity for its age, and ripe without crossing the line into jamminess or figginess. Instead it's more of a saucy fruit concentration. But none of that fruitiness translates to the palate, which is starting to show a faded patina and really needs some food in order for any of the fruit sweetness to poke through. It's a weird incongruity, aromatics that suggest a wine that's going to be fat and sweet but instead of tasting like a New World pinot, it hews to the general proportions of Burgundy while being hollowed out in the middle.
Sep 24th, 2016