Enderle & Moll
Grauburgunder
Baden, Germany
This is one of the most exciting wines I have had in ages and so totally in my wheelhouse for what I want out of this category that I could stand to have a keg of this on tap in my kitchen. I am tempted to rate this 10/10 as I literally cannot imagine it being more perfect or more satisfying, and am just coming (slightly) more down to earth on account of the fact that I will admit that even the greatest skin contact white wine ever made is maybe not at the level of the 1945 Romanee-Conti. That said, this is the greatest skin contact white wine ever made. It's what they all should be. The level of freshness just knocks your socks off. It's like a Super Bowl Gatorade dunk for the palate. The fruit flavors are succulent and unabashedly delicious - lots of peach, some melon, and unidentified other stuff contributing to the type of tropical refreshment that would make you want to put this in a mai tai glass with a little umbrella in it, and with a texture as sharp and acute as an icicle. The hue at the moment is a luminous salmon - even the color is enticing. It is not "orange wine." My complaint with many skin contact whites is that they pick up their depth and intrigue at the expense of freshness and drinkability. But here there is no tradeoff. This has the freshness of a dozen oysters and the drinkability is off the charts. Guzzling it is more like it.
This is one of the most exciting wines I have had in ages and so totally in my wheelhouse for what I want out of this category that I could stand to have a keg of this on tap in my kitchen. I am tempted to rate this 10/10 as I literally cannot imagine it being more perfect or more satisfying, and am just coming (slightly) more down to earth on account of the fact that I will admit that even the greatest skin contact white wine ever made is maybe not at the level of the 1945 Romanee-Conti. That said, this is the greatest skin contact white wine ever made. It's what they all should be. The level of freshness just knocks your socks off. It's like a Super Bowl Gatorade dunk for the palate. The fruit flavors are succulent and unabashedly delicious - lots of peach, some melon, and unidentified other stuff contributing to the type of tropical refreshment that would make you want to put this in a mai tai glass with a little umbrella in it, and with a texture as sharp and acute as an icicle. The hue at the moment is a luminous salmon - even the color is enticing. It is not "orange wine." My complaint with many skin contact whites is that they pick up their depth and intrigue at the expense of freshness and drinkability. But here there is no tradeoff. This has the freshness of a dozen oysters and the drinkability is off the charts. Guzzling it is more like it.
4 people found it helpfulJan 29th, 2016
7 March 2016. The Four Horsemen, Brooklyn, NY.
7 March 2016. The Four Horsemen, Brooklyn, NY.
Mar 8th, 201627 February 2016. #bigglounyc, Wythe Hotel, Brooklyn, NY.
27 February 2016. #bigglounyc, Wythe Hotel, Brooklyn, NY.
Mar 1st, 2016
By far the most interesting Pinot Gris I have ever tasted. This wine just showed up last week. Almonds and some malolactic tones on the nose. Dark yellow unfiltered. Real complexity. Slightly bitter Quince. Heirloom apples the ones from the old groves. Surprisingly some Brett. Unique a singleton among wines. I think E & M use grapes from very old vines for this one. Once again a winner from these guys.
By far the most interesting Pinot Gris I have ever tasted. This wine just showed up last week. Almonds and some malolactic tones on the nose. Dark yellow unfiltered. Real complexity. Slightly bitter Quince. Heirloom apples the ones from the old groves. Surprisingly some Brett. Unique a singleton among wines. I think E & M use grapes from very old vines for this one. Once again a winner from these guys.
Jan 21st, 2016