Philippe Delannoy
Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru Chardonnay
The strangest wine I’ve encountered all year - a relic from an old cellar in Beaune. We were no where near Chablis when we first opened it. Instead, it unfolded with the scents and flavours of a classic Sancerre (Alex said it reminded him of a young Vatan). With air, the wine transformed into something reminiscent of durian. Sounds unpleasant, but surprisingly it wasn’t. It made us think of those durian-filled pastries one might find at some dim sum places, a peculiar charm for those in the know. What combination of sulphur, fruit, and age led to this oddity? We could only guess. After about 2 hours, we finally arrived at the slated destination - saline, briny Chablis. Perhaps not the finest Chablis, but it was a wine that took us on a curious, winding journey. And if the empty bottle at the night’s end says anything, it’s that this wine, strange though it was, had its own subtle success.
The strangest wine I’ve encountered all year - a relic from an old cellar in Beaune. We were no where near Chablis when we first opened it. Instead, it unfolded with the scents and flavours of a classic Sancerre (Alex said it reminded him of a young Vatan). With air, the wine transformed into something reminiscent of durian. Sounds unpleasant, but surprisingly it wasn’t. It made us think of those durian-filled pastries one might find at some dim sum places, a peculiar charm for those in the know. What combination of sulphur, fruit, and age led to this oddity? We could only guess. After about 2 hours, we finally arrived at the slated destination - saline, briny Chablis. Perhaps not the finest Chablis, but it was a wine that took us on a curious, winding journey. And if the empty bottle at the night’s end says anything, it’s that this wine, strange though it was, had its own subtle success.
Oct 3rd, 2024