Dervieux Thaize

Gentaz-Dervieux

Côte Brune Cuvée Réservée Côte-Rôtie Syrah 1990

Okay…so I entered the night fully aware that we were going to be taking down some unicorns…but this?!  I wasn’t prepared for this. I walked into the room, greeted my fellow brothers-in-wine and began to set my contributions next to the other bottles in the line-up. I casually scanned from left to right in complete wonder at what was on display…and stopped halfway, as my eyes recognized a label from the recesses of my memory. A label that had been filed away under the category of “Academic” since there was very little likelihood that I would ever see a bottle, let alone have an opportunity to enjoy it. And yet, here I was, in a small town north of Lincoln, NE, staring in disbelief at a bottle of 1990 Gentaz-Dervieux. I turned to our host who, at this point, was smiling at me; like a childhood friend who had invited me over to play with his GI Joe Aircraft Carrier, the U.S.S. FLAGG. “F***ing Gentaz?!”

The nose? Magic. Brambles, granite, mushrooms, cumin, espresso, purple flowers, leather, smoke; so sanguine, so savory. Vinous. Rustic. Tremendous with Iberico pork cheek, mushroom ragu with lavender and thyme. I took my time. Drink now through 2035+.
— 9 months ago

Ira, Eric and 9 others liked this
Jay Kline

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@Ira Schwartz I was sort of resigned to a position of anticipating I would never even see a bottle. I very special surprise.
Jay Kline

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@Severn Goodwin no doubt…very fortunate.
Jay Kline

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@Lyle Fass incredible…but I guess there was a time when few fully appreciated what these wines meant.

Babass et Dervieux (Les Vignes de Babass)

Roc Cab Cabernet Sauvignon Blend

Mogen frukt och saltig. Förvånansvärt snäll! — 4 years ago

Adam and Fabian liked this

Rene Rostaing

Côte Blonde Côte-Rôtie Syrah 2004

This was a real treat after the Gentaz-Dervieux since Rene Rostaing is Marius Gentaz’s son-in-law. While the vineyards that belonged to Marius are now famously part of the Rostaing domaine, that vineyard goes to Rene’s Côte Brune; this is his Côte Blonde and arguably his most famous bottling. This 2004 pours a cloudy ruby with brambles, purple flowers, blood, dust and leather. Slightly rustic which is what I want from Rostaing. I love the individuality and how it paired with the Iberico pork cheek, mushroom ragu with lavender and thyme. Plenty of life left. Drink through 2034+. — 9 months ago

Ira, Eric and 9 others liked this

Domaine Champet

Les Fils à Jo Côte-Rôtie Syrah 2018

Real talk: I’m a little embarrassed to admit that this is my first experience with the wines of Domaine Champet. When I consider that their approach to winemaking is philosophically aligned with my own preferences, how did this meeting not happen before now? Maybe it’s because they only make 1000 cases of wine a year? Maybe it’s because I live in Nebraska. Whatever the reason, it no longer matters because I have now experienced what cannot be undone. For a bit of reference, the family has a rather rich, (Romain and Maxime are 4th generation), history working with vines in the “La Viallière” lieu-dit in the Côte Brune. “La Viallière” was made famous thanks to Dervieux (yes, as in Gentaz-Dervieux). The land is…improbable to farm…with some slopes close to 60°. Everything is performed by hand. This bottling, “Les Fils à Jo” focuses on the old vines from their holdings in “La Viallière”.

Popped and poured; consumed over 5 days, best on days 3-5 and the following notes reflect such. The wine pours a deep ruby with a near opaque core and pretty significant staining of the tears. Medium+ viscosity and every so slightly turbid. On the nose, blue and black fruits with bacon fat, lavender, kalamata olive, a whisper of baking spices…some white pepper, some tobacco…wild and beguiling. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium++ tannin and medium+ acid. Incredible texture. Confirming the fruit set and other aforementioned characteristics. There’s blueberry scone and an iron-ore kind of thing going "On and on and on, on and on and on; Checka checka it out, to the breaka breaka dawn". The finish is long…as in forever…and absolutely, positively divine. If tonight is any indication, this wine will drink well past 2040. Between the Levet’s and Champet’s, there are very few in Côte Rôtie making wines like this anymore. What is certain, is that this was one of those experiences where there was a time before, and a time after Champet. Certainly one of those I won’t ever forget.
— 3 years ago

Peter, Ira and 13 others liked this
Severn Goodwin

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Great notes as usual @Jay Kline and also nice to see low production stuff makes it all the way into NE.
Ely Cohn

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Amazing @Jay Kline !

Babass et Dervieux (Les Vignes de Babass)

Joseph Anne Françoise Chenin Blanc 2020

Sweet-ish yellow fruit, but dry finish. Medium bodied, round mouthfeel. I am willing to believe it will develop more complexity with a handfull of years in the cellar. — a year ago

Adam liked this

Babass et Dervieux (Les Vignes de Babass)

La Navine

TH
9.1

@no.501 5,330 incl tax — 4 years ago

Gentaz-Dervieux

Côte-Rôtie Syrah 1990

Rare bottle, different from the 1990 Gentaz Côte Rôtie Côte Brune.... this wine is comprised of 2 lieux dits: La Landonne and La Viaillère. It does not contain any of Gentaz’s small parcel in Côte Brune that was adjacent to the subplot that is now known as La Turque. For this reason Côte Brune does not appear on the label of this particular bottling. — 6 years ago

Ira liked this