Jay Kline

9.6

Opened prior to dinner; enjoyed over the course of several hours. This bottle of the 2010 pours a light ruby color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with a gorgeous mix of mostly red and some dark fruits, red flowers, exotic spices, licorice, meat and garrigue. On the palate the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. While not quite making the same impression that my previous experience with the 2010 Rayas had made, this is still a magnificent, singular wine. Drink now through 2050. — 20 hours ago

Jay Kline

9.4

Opened just prior to dinner. The 2008 Coteau de Vernon pours a deep straw color with medium viscosity. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of peach cup with the pears and cherry too. There’s white flowers, honey, fresh mint and other herbs too. Wow! On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and oily. This bottle came across young. A benchmark Condrieu. Drink now through 2038. — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Yes, that Christophe Baron (Cayuse, Horsepower, etc). This project has him going back to his family’s roots and focusing on Meunier. “Les Alouettes” is a tiny vineyard in Charly-sur-Marne, bottled at zero dosage and only available in magnum.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of two days. Even better on Day 2. The 2019 pours a straw color with a persistent mousse. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of raspberries, Gala apple, almond, a touch of lightly toasted brioche and chalky minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with high acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. I found this a touch reticent on the pop and pour but this opened dramatically by Day 2. Relative youth and the format surely played a role. Yummy stuff. Drink now with patience through 2039. Disgorged May 2023. Only 1358 magnums made. — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Opened prior to dinner; enjoyed over several hours. The 2012 pours a light ruby with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of red brambles, red rope licorice, leather, red flowers and purple flowers, and stony minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium acid. Confirming the notes from the nose the finish is medium+. Textbook, Grenache forward CdP that’s showing quite beautifully. Drink now through 2032. — 2 days ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Opened prior to dinner. The 1999 Blanc pours a slightly hazy, amber color with medium+ viscosity. On the nose, the wine is vinous with notes of butterscotch, mango, ripe melon, guava, beeswax, mushroom, white and yellow flowers, and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long, almost decadent and full of mushrooms. Both intellectual and hedonistic. Drink now through 2034. — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Jérôme Lefevre, Elaine Delalot’s son, falls into the category of noninterventionist; at least by Champagne’s standards. No pesticides. No weeding. No tilling. The dude doesn’t even prune. “Impressions” comes from a single small vineyard in Charly-sur-Marne called “Les Boulards”, planted exclusively to Meunier. The soils in Les Boulards are largely sand! The wine is aged in new, medium+ toasted, 300L barrels. The results are stunning.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of an hour. “Impressions” pours a slightly bronzed color with a persistent mousse. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of bright tropical fruits, raspberries, citrus, some varnish, and minerals. Natural. Soulful. Stunning. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and the texture is creamy. A totally “wow” wine and one of the more singular Champagnes I’ve had since my visit with Clément Perseval last fall. Disgorged November 2023. Bottle No. 562/1590 — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.4

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of an hour. The 2006 Comtes de Champagne pours a straw color with a persistent mousse. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of white peach, lemon curd, white flowers, lightly toasted brioche with chalk and limestone minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and creamy. This is delicious and fabulously balanced CdC. Drink now through 2036. — 4 days ago

Jay Kline

9.5

A truly special site, the average age of the vines used for “Le Berceau” are 60+ but some are approaching a century old. Aging is a mixture of old and new barrique.

Opened prior to dinner; enjoyed over several hours. The 2013 pours a deep garnet/purple with a near opaque core; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with classic notes of Syrah: mixed, wild brambles and then it’s like opening up a European deli case: black pepper and Herbes de Provence encrusted salami, olive tapenade, lavender, crushed rock and fine warm spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. Beguiling stuff. Drink now through 2038. — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Opened prior to dinner. The 2009 “Le Méal” Blanc pours a light gold color with medium+ viscosity. On the nose, the wine was initially a bit reductive but that eventually gave way to ripe peaches, passion fruit, a mix of white and yellow flowers, beeswax, almonds, minerals and there was also a wild note of Bandaid with Neosporin (you can’t make this up). On the palate, the wine is dry with medium acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. The alcohol is high but balanced. Drink now with patience through 2039. — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

A small portion of Pinot Noir (which makes up approximately 80% of the blend) still wine is added for color; the balance is Chardonnay. Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of an hour. The Grand Rosé pours a pretty pink color with a persistent mousse. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of raspberry, red apple, a mix of orchard citrus fruit, marzipan, a hint of brioche and lovely minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+ and round. Very easy to like. Drink now. Disgorged February of 2025. — 3 days ago