The Grape That Changed My Life

I don’t have an “aha” wine in general, but I do remember my first Barolo, that stunning elixir made of the Nebbiolo variety. It was a 2011 Damilano Lecinquevignes at a pretty chill basement bar in DTLA, and it blew my stockings off. I didn’t know wine like Barolo existed. It became an immediate obsession, craving and NEED. I sought it out. The twist and turn of earth and flowers, tannins and acid and elegance. A dance of a wine. Enchanting and ethereal but with a backbone. Nebbiolo changed my life. The jury is out on whether Nebbiolo came into existence in Lombardia or Piemonte, as there are several parent-child relationships in both regions. It has a few other names, including Spanna in northern Piemonte and the rare sub-variety of Chiavannasca in Lombardia and Picotener. The naming is also a little murky—it stems from the Italian word for fog, “nebbia,” but there are two leading philosophies as to why. The more likely theory is that it references Nebbiolo’s natural bloom, that cloudy white coating that forms on the grape skins. The other idea is that it was named for the fog that settles in the hills of Piemonte. While known for its garnet hues and tannic ways, Nebbiolo’s structure can vary quite a bit from region to region. Let’s explore some bottles, starting with everyone’s OG: BAROLO I love Barolo so, so, so much. It is required to age for three years with at least 18 months in oak, and riserva must be aged for five years including the 18 months in oak. I would love to discuss the nuances of Nebbiolo grown in Helvetian sandstone vs. tortonian clay (fun with dirt!), but I’ll save that for another article. The cliff notes are that Barolo tends to yield the most powerful and tannic expressions of the grape. 2019 Perla Terra Barolo Get it grllll. This is potent and acidic but the tannins are gentler than they could be, showing oodles of red fruit and rose bushes. This is a little young to be drinking, tbh. But it tastes good now and will likely taste even better later. The nose brings Earl Grey tea, lilacs and a certain marine-core to the mix. The palate is (obvi) so tannic, but these are well-waltzed tannins—the burn comes on slowly. It’s almost like a friendship that starts off cordial, then you have spats but are even better friends afterward. The finish is sappy, rose-petaled and delicious, and you’ll wish you hadn’t opened it as early as I did. 2019 Cantine Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Whoa, a bargain baby. Although it shows some edges, time will tell how they resolve. A touch of VA on the nose took a sec to blow off, then the nose screamed of red fruit and smoldering tar. The tar thankfully went from smoldering to sparking off here and there, but then the earth kicked in. Wow, this is earthy, but still, the fruit dominates. The palate delivers the highacid, alcohol, tannins and structure that you expect from Nebbiolo, but the tannins play fairly, acting as a highlight accessory and not a scene stealer. The tannic grip hangs on in tandem with the fruit and soil, into which rose petals may have fallen last spring. I can’t believe the price on this bebe. 2018 Manzone Barolo Castelletto She (or he? I feel like they call Barolo the king of Italian wine, but wine needs no gender) is from Monforte d’Alba, a subregion known for big ol’ tannins. It is showing quite well at this early age. Sandy but serious tannins lend weight to all sorts of rose petals and potting soil (basically it tastes like you’re gardening), at which point cherry cordial waves hello as it cascades down your throat. There’s a kiss of VA at the top but it blows off quickly. Licorice surfaces with more swirls. Fantastic. BARBARESCO Barbaresco is sometimes called the queen to Barolo’s king, but as I said, Nebbiolo knows no gender. It’s aged for a minimum of two years with nine months in oak, while the riserva ages a minimum of four years, also with nine months in oak. She’s a little more chill, but make no mistake, she has something to say. 2020 Marchesi di Grésy Martinenga Barbaresco This is lighter and lither than your standard Barolo, particularly given that Nebbiolo years to other grape years is like people years to cat years. Five years for Nebbiolo is like one year for, say, Grenache. 30% new French oak adds a lilt of vanilla to the cherry cola notes. It’s one of those Nebbiolos that I might think was a Pinot if not for the tannins, but gosh, those tannins make a case for themselves while staying silky. Barbaresco is, honestly, sometimes as good as Barolo (come at me). LANGHE Langhe is Barolo’s kingdom, so don’t get her twisted with Langhe Rosso, which can be a blend. If you are seeking Nebbiolo, opt for the varietal Langhe Nebbiolo instead! It requires a bit less ageing and is ready to drink slightly sooner. Furthermore, it is often delicious. 2021 Perbacco Nebbiolo Langhe This is a blend of mostly Barolo with a tad of Barbaresco Nebbiolo. It is bright as can be with red cherry, a whiff of earth and even a sanguine touch. It is tasty and ready to drink now but could use more integration. 2022 Ettore Germano Langhe Nebbiolo A very, very easy-drinking rendition of the grape. The nose reveals oodles of red cherry cordial plus a little violet and earth. The palate provides sandy tannins that ease into silky territory with time. Flavors echo the nose with red cherry compote, a rose petal or two and a slight, sanguine edge of dirt that points toward the varietal expression. 2020 Enrico Serafino Picotener Langhe Nebbiolo Yummmm give it time in the glass. The nose booms with red rose fun and umeboshi undertones. Fine-grained but assertive tannins are a bit grippy as the palate delivers zing-tastic acid, tart-tastic red fruit and some cherry preserves. Both the taste and texture of skin are in there, with almost a little licorice and maybe some cloves lurking around? Is there oak here? GHEMME AND GATTINARA In the north of Piemonte lie Ghemme and Gattinara, where they call Nebbiolo Spanna! Ghemme must be a minimum 85% Spanna. Gattinara must have a minimum of 90% Spanna. Sadly, I did not get my hands on any to review for you. I apologize! VALTELLINA Up to Lombardy we go, where they call it chiavannasca! This might be the birthplace of Nebbiolo! Or maybe not! It’s cooler up there, and the grapes grow in terraces sheltered by the Alps from winds. Valtellina Nebbiolo tends to be a little less heady and a little earlier-drinking, but I find them so utterly enchanting and sleek. 2018 Dirupi Valtellina Superiore Super friendly, easy to gulp but also easy to analyze if you give yourself time to lean into the nuances. This one in particular is SO fresh—it’s like you can taste the chillier air. The nose offers bright red cherry and pomegranate with a slight tang that reminds me of tamarind. The palate is strikingly less tannic than a Piemonte Nebbiolo, filled with earth as it circles back to tamarind, turmeric and cherry compote. Gorgeous and a thinker if you give it the time of day, which…you will. It takes a minute or so to open, but that time spent waiting will be rewarded with an eloquent wine that says just enough. 2019 Cristina Scarpellini Valtellina Superiore Valgella Riserva Sappy herbal red fruit and a bit of wet earth dominate the nose. The palate brings in domesticated tannins (they are there but not showy) and zippy acid. The florals sing in harmony with the just-ripe cherry fruit on the palate, yielding touches of licorice, mint and a little VA. It's gorgeous, harmonious and ready to go now, but the structure will give it legs over time. Tenuta Scerscé Nettare Nebbiolo Rosso di Valtellina 2021 Graceful as can be! So translucent with a nose of earth and cherry compote plus a hint of licorice. The palate is dry and high-acid with round, moderate tannins that are well integrated. The palate echoes the tongue, finishing with an almost sweet tobacco/dusty vibe. Elegant but earthy. I love Valtellina. IN CONCLUSION… I don’t even know if I could name a shower Nebbiolo at the end of all this, but of course I will lie that I can. It would be the Dirupi for its spry nature and depth. Even in the spray and fog, it would have something to say without needing food. A delight. But isn’t Nebbiolo always? Want to read more from Ellen? Check out her recent articles: Old World v. New Bordeaux Blends New Zealand, Sustainability, Forethought Tube-Wines Interview with the Winemaker: Adam Casto Wine Situation Final Five: Fahara Zamorano You can also listen to Ellen's podcast The Wine Situation here.