Martin Müllen
Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese* trocken Riesling
Mosel, Germany
An extraordinary bottle that still feels almost absurdly young. The nose is elite and intensely site-driven, with peach, apricot, citrus, wild mint, petrol, huge spice and soaring minerality, all with an airy quality that somehow makes the concentration feel weightless. The palate is outrageously dense, chewy and pure, with massive citrus intensity, tremendous inner-mouth aromatics and absolutely ferocious acidity. The finish is endless and intensely saline, almost like sea salt, with enormous mineral persistence. More open than my last bottle, but still slightly backward and clearly built for decades. Outrageous concentration, density and length. This could easily move higher with air.
This has become extraordinary with air. The nose is now more complex, confectionery and elegant, with peach, apricot, citrus, wild mint, petrol, spice, mineral and that distinctive swimming-pool-chlorine note. The palate is outrageously dense, chewy and pure, but increasingly refined, with tremendous inner-mouth aromatics, ferocious acidity and an endless saline finish. The concentration is enormous, yet the wine somehow feels more graceful as it opens. Still remarkably young, with decades ahead of it. Outrageous wine.
An extraordinary bottle that still feels almost absurdly young. The nose is elite and intensely site-driven, with peach, apricot, citrus, wild mint, petrol, huge spice and soaring minerality, all with an airy quality that somehow makes the concentration feel weightless. The palate is outrageously dense, chewy and pure, with massive citrus intensity, tremendous inner-mouth aromatics and absolutely ferocious acidity. The finish is endless and intensely saline, almost like sea salt, with enormous mineral persistence. More open than my last bottle, but still slightly backward and clearly built for decades. Outrageous concentration, density and length. This could easily move higher with air.
This has become extraordinary with air. The nose is now more complex, confectionery and elegant, with peach, apricot, citrus, wild mint, petrol, spice, mineral and that distinctive swimming-pool-chlorine note. The palate is outrageously dense, chewy and pure, but increasingly refined, with tremendous inner-mouth aromatics, ferocious acidity and an endless saline finish. The concentration is enormous, yet the wine somehow feels more graceful as it opens. Still remarkably young, with decades ahead of it. Outrageous wine.
Such an all star. Still young. So elegant. Huge acid.
Such an all star. Still young. So elegant. Huge acid.
Jul 13th, 2024
Chalky and floral aromas and brisk lime zest nose. Intense acids on the palate. I am hoping this calms down with a few more years in bottle.
Chalky and floral aromas and brisk lime zest nose. Intense acids on the palate. I am hoping this calms down with a few more years in bottle.
Nov 25th, 2023Stunning. Just entering maturity but also a youthful vigor. Huge acid, length and density. Wow.
Stunning. Just entering maturity but also a youthful vigor. Huge acid, length and density. Wow.
Aug 3rd, 2019
Nose: amazing aged mosel Riesling. Petrol.
Palate: perfect minerals. Sweet green apples. Hint of apple skin. Man. Really sweet delicious fruit.
Long finish.
Fass selections.
Nose: amazing aged mosel Riesling. Petrol.
Palate: perfect minerals. Sweet green apples. Hint of apple skin. Man. Really sweet delicious fruit.
Long finish.
Fass selections.