Pio Cesare
Barolo Nebbiolo
Barolo, Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy
When a bottle of wine is this old, one can never have too high of expectations. There are far too many variables to consider when it comes to whether it will even be drinkable, let alone enjoyable. Particularly when it’s a wine from an unheralded vintage like 1953. As someone who has been fortunate enough to have tried many old bottles over the last ten or so years, I have had my share of duds; even bottles from a good vintage with strong provenance. However, every now and again, a bottle will surprise and this 1953 Barolo from Pio Cesare went way beyond my expectations. It had many stories to tell.
There was a tremendous amount of sediment but I had allowed that to settle to the bottom by leaving it upright for a couple of days. We pulled the cork few hours before service and decanted. The cork was very typical of wines from the region at the time; short and stubby. With the help of a Durand, we were able to extract in one piece and, to my astonishment, the cork was only 1/3 saturated. And then, whoa…what a lovely perfume. It was alive! The ’53 pours a light copper color and has a largely transparent core. On the nose, the fruit is still playing a major role however it was almost completly desiccated now: cherry, apricot, prune, tar, dried roses, dried leather, and mushrooms. On the palate the tannins are almost imperceptible and completely resolved. The acid is lovely; the preserver of life. The notes from the nose were confirmed and there was a long, satisfying finish. There was substance and a real energy about it. Old…and yet so full of life! I want to be absolutely clear, this wasn’t just a novel experience. This was a practical one as well as it paired perfectly with tajarin tossed with shiitake mushrooms as well as a bit of bone-in Wagyu New York Strip from Morgan Ranch. Everyone at the table was smitten by this septuagenarian of a Barolo; even those who had no prior experience with old wines. Drink now.
For what it’s worth, I’ve had this bottle in my cellar for a little over a year, when I was fortunate to have come across one with decent provenance. This is a wine I will very likely never see again but it was so wonderful to have had the experience and I’ll cherish this memory forever.
When a bottle of wine is this old, one can never have too high of expectations. There are far too many variables to consider when it comes to whether it will even be drinkable, let alone enjoyable. Particularly when it’s a wine from an unheralded vintage like 1953. As someone who has been fortunate enough to have tried many old bottles over the last ten or so years, I have had my share of duds; even bottles from a good vintage with strong provenance. However, every now and again, a bottle will surprise and this 1953 Barolo from Pio Cesare went way beyond my expectations. It had many stories to tell.
There was a tremendous amount of sediment but I had allowed that to settle to the bottom by leaving it upright for a couple of days. We pulled the cork few hours before service and decanted. The cork was very typical of wines from the region at the time; short and stubby. With the help of a Durand, we were able to extract in one piece and, to my astonishment, the cork was only 1/3 saturated. And then, whoa…what a lovely perfume. It was alive! The ’53 pours a light copper color and has a largely transparent core. On the nose, the fruit is still playing a major role however it was almost completly desiccated now: cherry, apricot, prune, tar, dried roses, dried leather, and mushrooms. On the palate the tannins are almost imperceptible and completely resolved. The acid is lovely; the preserver of life. The notes from the nose were confirmed and there was a long, satisfying finish. There was substance and a real energy about it. Old…and yet so full of life! I want to be absolutely clear, this wasn’t just a novel experience. This was a practical one as well as it paired perfectly with tajarin tossed with shiitake mushrooms as well as a bit of bone-in Wagyu New York Strip from Morgan Ranch. Everyone at the table was smitten by this septuagenarian of a Barolo; even those who had no prior experience with old wines. Drink now.
For what it’s worth, I’ve had this bottle in my cellar for a little over a year, when I was fortunate to have come across one with decent provenance. This is a wine I will very likely never see again but it was so wonderful to have had the experience and I’ll cherish this memory forever.