Varaison Vineyards & Winery
Cuvée Brûlée Chardonnay
Grand Valley, Colorado, USA
It’s heavily oxidized, but not a reductive style. Orange peel and orange blossom on the nose. The creme brûlée name is accurate. Burnt sugar and cream flow out of this guy quite liberally. Butterscotch, vanilla cream. I get pineapple at the end. Long lingering finish. Remarkable for a 2007 Colorado wine.
I admit I’m struggling with the carefree attitudes of the winemaking process and lack of concern for the influences of terroir. We’re drinking with the winemaker, Alex, who is by trade a chemist. He brings this education to the wine in a way that strikes me uncomfortable, but I am not one to judge theory of his craft. The wine is great and has more age left in it. It’ll keep changing and altering over time.
It’s just that the wine is good, not because of where it comes from or how the grapes grew or the weather that year, but because Alex uses processes to alter their chemistry in ways that fit a style he prefers.
“Sustainable” grapes, though?
It’s heavily oxidized, but not a reductive style. Orange peel and orange blossom on the nose. The creme brûlée name is accurate. Burnt sugar and cream flow out of this guy quite liberally. Butterscotch, vanilla cream. I get pineapple at the end. Long lingering finish. Remarkable for a 2007 Colorado wine.
I admit I’m struggling with the carefree attitudes of the winemaking process and lack of concern for the influences of terroir. We’re drinking with the winemaker, Alex, who is by trade a chemist. He brings this education to the wine in a way that strikes me uncomfortable, but I am not one to judge theory of his craft. The wine is great and has more age left in it. It’ll keep changing and altering over time.
It’s just that the wine is good, not because of where it comes from or how the grapes grew or the weather that year, but because Alex uses processes to alter their chemistry in ways that fit a style he prefers.
“Sustainable” grapes, though?