Domaine De La Bongran

Domaine de la Bongran

Cuvée Levroutée Viré-Clessé Chardonnay 2017

This exceeded expectations-Notes from retailer We’ve long been fans of Domaine de la Bongran, a curious little estate in Viré-Clessé producing delicious and distinct white Burgundies. Their Cuvée Levroutée is only made in exceptional years, using some botrytised fruit and made in an off-dry style; as with their other wines, it is aged exclusively in stainless steel to allow the terroir to shine. The 2017 is the first release of the cuvée in over a decade, with the previous vintage produced 2006. The fruit comes from specific parcels with marl-rich soils that retain humidity and therefore encourage the development of noble rot, while also producing Chardonnay with a beautiful backbone of acidity.

The 2017, made with around 25% botrytised fruit, is still incredibly young, with the bite of Seville orange pith, honey and richer peach on the nose, leading on to a lush palate that offers a rush of stone fruit, reined in by a line of mineral citrus. The 17g/l residual sugar is beautifully integrated, and zesty notes linger on the long finish, keeping the wine impressively fresh and balanced. Winemaker Gautier Thévenet tells us that within three to five years the wine tends to seem dry, the sugar integrating with the body of the wine and becoming even more complex. Just 4,200 bottles were produced.

Wine Advocate 95 review

The 2017 Viré-Clessé Cuvée Levroutée is now on the market, and it is the first time the Thevent family has been able to produce this cuvée since 2006. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, caramelized pineapple, mandarin, white flowers, pine resin and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with a layered core, racy acids and appreciable residual sweetness and structural tension, but it's already more integrated and expressive than it was last year, so it appears to be coming into its stride.
— 7 days ago

Paul, Tom and 15 others liked this
Paul T HB

Paul T HB

I normally get the regular Bongran at $40-45 but when I saw this available I jumped on it
Shay A

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Where did you find it?
Paul T HB

Paul T HB

Vinfolio

Calera Wine Company

Mt. Harlan Chardonnay 2017

Shay A
9.2

This was one of my wines from my annual WWC hosting. The other whites were Bereche Brut Reserve for the champagne, a 2015 Bongran EJ Thevent (burgundy) Chardonnay and a 2017 Moone-Tsai Ritchie Chardonnay.

Color me impressed. I have enjoyed Calera’s pinots quite a bit, but I haven’t had as much experience with the Chardonnay’s. It was almost like a Aubert Larry Hyde “lite”. As this was tasted blind, most guessed this was Chardonnay, but lots of back and forth on where it would be from. Initially, this toed the line between steely and slightly oaked with bright citrus, lemon, clean aromatics…but after an hour in the glass, this really bulked up and sported a down-the-middle type medium bodied profile. Not lean, not powerful. The tart lemon turned to a more lemon cream profile with lots of floral/honeysuckle notes, alongside herb crusted yellow fruits. No problem opening now, but I’d love to try another one of these in a few years. 92+
— 4 years ago

Jason, Tom and 30 others liked this
Scott@Mister A’s-San Diego

Scott@Mister A’s-San Diego

My general impressions with this vintage as well. Hadn't tasted this wine going back to 2012 but had consistently back to the early 90's. Usually on the leaner fruit side with a big mineral focus paired with a "hot"/high alcohol oomph. Sounds weird but it worked most of the time. This vintage much less "hot" and more balanced but less intense. Miss the old style because it was the only chard from CA that brought that particular vibe.
Shay A

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@Scott Rose : Good to know. I was really impressed with the balance here.

Domaine de la Bongran

Viré-Clessé Chardonnay 2014

Somm David T
9.3

It has been awhile since I’ve had this cuvée. It has darkened & gained infinitely in complexity. One of the very best White Burgundies values on the market. Anxiously awaiting the 2022s. Past vintages around $39.

Still has excellent viscosity & acidity. Very ripe to dried yellow & white stone fruits, ripe & dried apricots, marmalade jam, pineapple juice to dried pineapple, macerated lemons, touches of lime & green apple, tropical melons, saline, sea fossils, melted caramel, some toffee, toast, limestone, chalk, mixed nuts w/ skin-Brazil nuts lead that blend, yellows lilies & flowers, grand acidity as I already mentioned, with a lush, elegant, well balanced finish that lasts two-minutes and falls gently on minerality.
— 2 months ago

Ira, Brian and 10 others liked this
Paul T HB

Paul T HB

Already went through a case of 2019

Domaine de la Bongran

Cuvée E.J. Thévenet Viré-Clessé Chardonnay 2017

Nicely evolved from half bottle, with nutty aromas, ripe apple, a bit of orange blossom, a salty whiff, just a tiny hint of marcipan. So intriguing. Needs a moment in the glass to fully develop.
On the palate this starts off rich & very ripe but then the juicy acidity kicks in. And the minerality & the hint of tannin. Good depth & precision with over ripe lemons, orange peel marmalade and ripe yellow apples.
Good stuff!
— 2 years ago

Lyle liked this

Domaine de la Bongran

Cuvée Tradition Bourgogne Chardonnay 2015

Somm David T
9.4

Can’t write notes tonight. So, one word. Stupid! Especially, for $39.99. I bought six & going back for six more. You should seek out.

Ok...I would drink this over just about any expensive or cult like CA Chardonnay.

Drinks with the honey - honeysuckles notes of a more aged White Burgundy, nice viscosity, stellar chalkiness & minerality with sea fossils. Beautiful elegant finish.

Cheers!
— 5 years ago

P, Severn and 31 others liked this
Paul T HB

Paul T HB

Wow, $40.00 thats breaking the 🏦
Jan A

Jan A

Still have some 2014 in my cellar, these are aged without any oak if I remember correctly. Special wine indeed
Somm David T

Somm David T Influencer Badge

@Jan A Just a beautiful White Burgundy. Especially, at that price. Cheers!
@Brian Szluk Sokolin Cheers!

Château Fuisse

Tête de Cuvée Pouilly-Fuisse Chardonnay 2018

Shay A
9.2

Zero expectations here, and I am now on the hunt for more. Absolutely killer and (evidently) a wonderful QPR.

Didn’t know what type of profile to expect here, but I (incorrectly) assumed it would be somewhere in the middle and while pleasant enough, nothing to write home about. What I found was a wine that reminds me an awful lot of Domaine de la Bongran’s EJ Thevnet (all time favorite of mine), yet dialed back just a touch. Light gold in the glass, big aromatics of ripe peach, yellow fruits, and a dash of baking spice. Texturally is leans bigger, but the finish snaps back with great acidity. Lemon cream, golden raspberries, limestone and a vibrant finish. Whereas the Bongran has a touch of sweetness, this has more of a small perception of sweetness. Loved it.
— 2 years ago

Vanessa, Tom and 17 others liked this

Domaine Billaud-Simon

Chablis Chardonnay 2019

Another 1 hour fade, but not bad for the price.
Thats one thing about the Bongran, you can decant that for several hours & it continues to improve.
— 3 years ago

Eric, Casey and 12 others liked this

Domaine de la Bongran

Cuvée Botrytis 10 Octobre Mâcon Clessé Chardonnay 1994

I’ve had other bottles of this that were less enjoyable, but this one is excellent. Very amber and honeyed and viscous in the glass. Wildly aromatic with tons of honeysuckle and white fruit. Mouth filling with great deep fruit and good acid as well. Quite complete and delicious. — 6 years ago

Ira, Jason and 1 other liked this

Domaine de la Bongran

Quintaine Viré-Clessé Chardonnay 2009

Still rockin’ . Nicely balanced melon and yellow fruit. Yum! — 6 years ago

Matt liked this