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Weingut Keller

Kirchspiel Riesling 2017

Those who know me well know just how much I adore the wines, the family, and the place. There’s a certain magic at Keller, one that many fellow Riesling-lovers can attest to. But this bottle, this 17’ Kirchspiel, holds a little more weight than most for me. Not just because it’s an extraordinary vintage, though it most certainly is. But because I was there working harvest that year

Sorting the Kirchspiel fruit was relentless work. Many passes. No shortcuts. We removed anything botrytised and hail-afflicted, every last questionable berry. Pressing was just as meticulous: whole bunch, long and slow cycles, gentle pressures (never exceeding 1.8 bar) to keep the botrytis influence to an absolute minimum. It was all about purity. And purity is exactly what defines the 17’ Kirchspiel.

I’ve had this wine a number of times, but this bottle, slow-oxed since lunch, was something else. A near-perfect showing. Lemon, grapefruit, flint, and white floral, all wrapped up in a saline, chalk-laden precision that feels like liquid geology. Every element in place, nothing extraneous. A dense, electric core of energy, though slightly quieter than its rowdier siblings. The structure is packed, tightly coiled, and unmistakably Kirchspiel.

Effortless energy, but born from backbreaking work. Very worth it.
— 3 days ago

Vanessa, Ely and 15 others liked this

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Shay A
9.2

Any time I open a Riesling or GV from a reputable producer, I wonder why I don’t open them more often.

Great vintage, great Austrian producer.

I really enjoy the differences between Alsatian Rieslings, German Rieslings and Austrian Rieslings, the latter normally being a bit more textural/full-bodied (and higher in ABV at 13%, compared to the typical 8-10% range of the others). Pale yellow in the glass. White peach and a sweet lemon/lemongrass type of aromatic. Ripe stone fruits (more peach but also apricot) and minerals/slate alongside a spine of acidity that isn’t sharp, but balanced. Tasty.
— 10 days ago

Pinotman, Tom and 26 others liked this
Pinotman /// Andreas

Pinotman /// Andreas

The Alsatian Riesling are often broad and big. Top ones are just rare in the US. One has to go to the source to try more producers.
Pinotman /// Andreas

Pinotman /// Andreas

Aka visit Elsass.
Shay A

Shay A Influencer Badge Premium Badge

@Pinotman /// Andreas : Thanks for the info. I’m normally opening sweet(er) German Rieslings, which makes sense at the lower ABV. I have a lengthy experience with Alsatian Rieslings and normally don’t find them “big”, but I suppose it’s relative. 2007 Trimbach CFE I had a few days ago was more elegant, but not as chiseled as I’d expect from a dry German Riesling. Also get TDN/petrol profile more common with Alsatian Rieslings than others.

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