Nagging Doubt
Chronic Cellars
Space Doubt Paso Robles Zinfandel
This is a neat, fruit Zinfandel. Dark colour and well worth a try. — 3 years ago
Grosset
Polish Hill Clare Valley Riesling 2012
Saturday lunch with friends. Aromas of white flowers and bath talcum powder. Amazingly youthful for a 9 year old Riesling - a long future ahead of at least another 10 to 15 years. Vibrant acidity will nurture this going forward. Considered by many to be Australia’s premium Riesling. A class act which will no doubt put on weight in the coming 10 years. Had another bottle 42 weeks later on 17th April 2022 with consistent notes. Very contained and youthful. Not a hint of kerosene. Leave the remaining 2? bottles for a couple of years at least. — 3 years ago
Seavey Vineyard
Caravina Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
We opened this bottle late on Friday night and poured off a small glass to see what we were working with. As I suspected, far too young with loads of energy, rolls of baby fat and frankly, not very well behaved. So we pressed the cork back in the bottle and figured we would try our luck the next day when my parents stopped by for a socially distant glass of wine to “celebrate” Easter together. I’m so glad we waited. Twelve or so hours of slow-ox made a huge difference. While it was still very primary, it was much more enjoyable showing a strong core of dark berries, tobacco, leather, coffee and baking spices. But again, where Seavey really excels is texture and sense of place. To be expected for mountain fruit at this age, the tannins are firm but reasonable and there is such lovely acid that screams Howell Mountain. I have no doubt this will have a very bright future! In my mind, Caravina is probably the greatest “second” wine in Napa. This is Seavey’s 19th and latest vintage of Caravina. After an extended drought, 2017 began with torrential rain that flooded the valley. The fruit comes entirely from steep hillside blocks on the estate and is otherwise made in the same fashion as the Grand Vin. If you’re going to drink one now, I highly recommend a lengthy decant as these are easily 10 years away from their best. — 4 years ago
Alphonse Mellot
La Moussière Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Grassy Sancerre with pineapple notes and an incredible sense of weight (from the ABV no doubt) but still graceful. Just great — 2 years ago
Château La Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 2001
When I purchased this five years ago, it was without a doubt the nicest bottle of Bordeaux I owned. 2001 was a good vintage for certain producers, and with Haut Brion being my favorite first growth, I wanted to have one of these with some age to see how they evolve. I slow ox’ed for 1-2hrs, consumed from bottle over the next three hours, and saved the last quarter for the next day.
Amongst quite a few first growths (and a ‘94 and ‘04 Haut Brion) this held its own. Compared to HB, it doesn’t have that brooding power and deep fruit core as intensely, but it wasn’t too far behind. More red fruit/black cherry than the dominant black I normally get with HB. Potpourri, baked black cherries, and cherry pipe tobacco showed strong on both days. No reductive funk to blow off. Faint notes of mocha, scorched earth and peppered strip, but it meshes with the cassis and grippy herbal tannic finish. What I didn’t expect was how vibrant the acidity was on both days. A beautiful example of high quality Bordeaux, and one I wish I had more of. — 2 years ago
A. Rafanelli
Unfiltered Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2009
Something quite magical often happens to Rafanelli Zinfandel after 10+ years of bottle age. I can’t explain it…but these wines begin to take on a more rustic, Old World feel. It’s as if they shift into an overdrive. The fruit is still big, beautiful and pure (no-doubt a testament to their rigorous selection) and yet they can often display a new energy about them which give them remarkable longevity. This bottle is perfectly representative.
Opened to celebrate my daughter’s 14th birthday, the 2009 Rafanelli Zinfandel pours a deep, practically opaque garnet that becomes more turbid the further we delved into the bottle (in typical fashion, this Rafanelli full of sediment). Medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, bright cherry and bramble-like fruits, Asian spices, espresso and some black pepper. I do sense a touch of VA. On the palate, the wine is dry and with medium tannin and medium+ acid. The notes from the nose are confirmed…with a bit of added emphasis, it should be noted. There’s almost a Pop Rocks experience too…with the slightest effervescence pricking the tongue. And again, this is something that I would more expect from a non-interventionalist wine from Italy…certainly not from Sonoma. Hot take here…but this bottle reminded me of something from Paolo Bea (San Valentino) more than anything from Sonoma, let alone California. It’s just so wonderful. The finish is long and delivers minutes of pleasure.
As far as I’m concerned, nobody is making Zinfandel with the soul that Rafanelli does and the proof is in the bottle each and every time. Of course, they are delicious when young but with age, these wines become something else. Drink now with a decant (for sediment only) and through 2034. — 2 years ago
Château Segur de Cabanac
St. Estèphe Red Bordeaux Blend 2015
Lee Pitofsky
The first couple times I tried 08 I was definitely too quick to judge. It needs a ton of air, and it’s different from the rich, oxidative, nutty house style of the past, particularly the warm and ultra forward 2006, the previous release. 2008 is indeed young, tightly wound with a pulsating core of energy.
The first glass offers very little. Subdued, austere and youthfully reserved. But ensuing pours eventually unleash its core of powerful clean orchard fruit, coffee bean and grilled nuts. On the palate it continues to become so much more textural with crazy gains in weight, depth and fruit intensity as the night goes on. It really fills the mouth, saturating the palate with a satin-like texture, ripping citrusy acids and saline laced minerals that follow deep into its finish. Enjoyable now with enough air (needs 2 hours), but no doubt one to hold. To live forever. — 2 years ago