Jay Kline

9.5

This was one of those rare nights where I had zero obligations…so I decided it might be fun to grab one of the relative newcomers to my cellar and head down to Mertz, sit at the bar, and share with the staff. Upon arrival, I was met immediately by the incomparable Matt Brown who asked if I would like to sit next to Dan Morgan. “Morgan Ranch Dan Morgan? Uhhh…yuh!” I duly handed my bottle to Matt and he kindly introduced me to Dan. After exchanging some pleasantries, I sat down and suggested we open the Brisset and see what it’s about. Dan was game so we proceeded to enjoy the evening, covering a range of topics from travel to the state of our education system and much more. It should go without saying that we each enjoyed a couple of steaks from his ranch too. I mean, obviously.

Initially, we popped and poured a single glass. It was beautiful, particularly on the nose, but seemed a touch reticent on the palate so we elected to splash decant. We enjoyed this bottle over the course of several hours where it really started to thrill after getting a nice bit of air. The wine pours a deep ruby color with a deep but transparent core; medium viscosity, with very light staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with gorgeous, even unctuous, notes of ripe red (and some black) fruits: strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, Bing cherry, red flowers, licorice, warm spices, and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+. Wow…such a youthful beauty…and it’s already giving me some sugar. The quality is obvious, almost startling. Drink now with patience but better after 2032 and through 2052+. Thanks for the assist @Lyle Fass

P.S. I should provide the Morgan Ranch backstory. Located in Burwell, Nebraska, the Morgan Family were one of the very first producers of Japanese Wagyu cattle outside of Japan; Dan brought the first herd from Japan back in 1993. They are, to my knowledge, the only Wagyu producer that exports back into Japan. — a month ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Christmas lunch date at V. Mertz. Disgorged January 2013. No formal notes. Rich in style with bruised apple, brioche, honey and some nutty, oxidative notes too. Zippy acid still. A truly wonderful way to close out the meal. — 3 years ago

Jay Kline

9.1

Christmas lunch date at V. Mertz. Poured into a decanter just before service. No formal notes. The wine is vinous and showing lovely secondary notes. A mix of red and dark desiccated fruits, leather, mocha, pipe tobacco, earth and baking spices. Tannins have mostly integrated. A fully mature wine that ready to drink and an excellent pairing with the grilled pork pate melt. — 3 years ago

Matthew Cohen

9.3

Limestone.

N: smoke Finley powdered minerals.

P: nice acidity. Elegant yellow fruits. Very juicy. Super grip. Mineral. — 8 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Brought to V. Mertz from my cellar. Cascina Fontana is an ultra-traditional producer located in the commune of Castiglione Falletto; just across the border from Monforte d’Alba. The bulk of their holdings are western-facing parcels within the Mariondino MGA that were formerly part of the “Valletti Zone”. However, as an ultra-traditionalist, they only produce two Barolos and both are blends of fruit from different MGAs. One is labeled simply "Barolo" (which is a blend of fruit sourced from their holdings in both Castiglione Falletto and La Morra) and this wine, labeled under the “del Commune di Castiglione Falletto” designation. It is a blend fruit from Mariondino and the neighboring Villero MGA. Their holdings in Villero don’t suck either. Their parcels reside next to those of Vietti and Giacomo Fenocchio.

The 2016 Cascina Fontana pours a bright garnet with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity and no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with gorgeous aromas of Morello cherry, bruised strawberry, pink and white roses with freshly cut stems, crushed rock and some tar. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and savory. The texture? Simply divine. A debonair Barolo from Castiglione Falletto that paired well with Morgan Ranch wagyu tartar. Because it’s 2016 (and with a little Villero), you can drink now with patience and through…well…probably 2066. No cap. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.6

We pulled this from our cellar and brought it to V. Mertz for dinner. We enjoyed a couple of other wines as aperitifs and then ultimately did what anyone given the opportunity should do: pair it with lamb chops. We poured it into a decanter while we enjoyed the conversation and opening courses. Given the setting, there were no formal notes however, I can confidently report that the 2015 “Tintot” absolutely slaps. From the first sip to the last, it was all balance, power and class. It was also a spectacular showcase for Mourvèdre. It was hard to fully judge color because the lighting was so low but it appeared to be nearly opaque. A touch feral with a slightly gamey element to it but there’s a great big ol’ basket of black and blue fruits with red and purple flowers, garrigue, some black pepper and cedar chest. Structure is still quite firm but totally enjoyable. While this is an unusual assemblage for the region, it still comes across as a wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This was my first “Tintot” and it has left quite the impression. Drink now with an hour decant or over the next 7-10 years. P.S. it probably goes without saying, but the pairing with lamb chops was sublime. — 3 years ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Brought from my cellar to dinner at Mertz. Massolino’s “Serralunga d’Alba” is a blend of their rather remarkable vineyard holdings in some of the more revered sites in the Serralunga commune. It’s also a perfect example of the 2010 vintage which, to my palate, may turn out to be a vintage that will live 50+ years.

Poured into a decanter about 45min prior to dinner. The 2010 “Serralunga d’Alba” pours a bright garnet with a transparent core. On the nose, developing with bright pomegranate, cranberry, Morello cherry, roses, tar, dried herbs and dried earth. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long, grippy and shows surprising elegance despite the remarkable structure. And that’s the hallmark of the 2010 vintage: there’s enough structure to support the Library of Congress and yet, there is an undeniable charm thanks to the bright fruit and pretty aromatics. Drink now with patience and enjoy through 2050+ because seriously, this has some real substance. — a year ago

Brian Hearty

9.2

2018. Perfect accompaniment to the small plates at our holiday lunch at V. Mertz! — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.6

This bottle of 2016 Vice Versa “Dr. Crane Vineyard” (BBS) was generously provided by a friend who selected it from his cellar to share over dinner at V. Mertz. This is the BBS (Best Barrel Select) of the Dr. Crane Vineyard which, I guess, is deemed the best tasting barrel by the winemaking team. Popped and poured. No formal notes but I can state with absolutely certainly that the juice is well and truly special. The wine is still quite youthful but already very easy to love. Beautifully layered dark fruits with tobacco, cocoa, stone-like minerals and deftly integrated baking spices. The structure is firm, leaving little doubt about the long life yet ahead. That being said, everything is so well balanced. I have a very strong feeling this will be one of those wines that never really shuts down. While they are two very different wines from different parts of the world, I found this to be a very handsome compliment to the 2015 “Tintot” we drank just before. This was also very nice with the lamb chops we had for dinner. Drink now or through 2036.
— 3 years ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Christmas lunch date at V. Mertz. Popped and poured from a half bottle. No formal notes. From the pour, this was ready to rock and faking the funk on a nasty dunk. Ripe red fruits, garrigue and pasture land. Tasty and paired well with the carbonara and kimchi bucatini. — 3 years ago