Devil May Care

McHenry Vineyard

Swan Clone Pinot Noir 2021

If you’ve been following me on CT or Delectable for while, you’ve probably read some of my tasting notes on the Pinot Noirs from McHenry Vineyard. Few are aware that this special vineyard, way up on Bonny Doon Road, even exists. Fewer probably know that the McHenry family have been quietly producing wine from this vineyard for over 40 years. It has never been easy. Not only are the vines own-rooted, they have also had to deal with some devastating fires over the years. And yet, despite the challenges, the McHenry’s remain committed to growing Pinot Noir and making truly special wine.

As I have mentioned in the past the winery was destroyed by the CZU Lightening Complex Fire in August of 2020. The vines survived but no wine from the vineyard was made that year (obviously). While the winery gets rebuilt, the fruit from the McHenry Vineyard has been made with care by their neighbor, Ryan Beauregard. The McHenry’s are still making a lot of the decisions but they are working around the Beauregard’s schedule. 2021 represents the first year of this collaboration and the results are nothing short of incredible.

Popped and poured; consumed over the course of a week with the help of a “Repour” stopper. A little austere on Day 1 but it was obvious the quality was super high and unmistakably McHenry. As hilarious as this may read, this was best on Day 7. The 2021 Swan Clone pours very pretty ruby with medium viscosity and no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with beguiling aromas of the tiniest forest strawberries, dark cherries, anise, some tomato leaf, some beets, a touch of clove, a mix of red and purple flowers, limestone minerals and some beautiful, soft baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish lasts forever and it’s got a lovely savory thing going on. This is a wow wine with a long, bright future ahead. You can drink now with patience but this will drink best after 2026 and probably be stunning through 2040. How will I keep my hands off my remaining bottles? Only 100 cases were produced.
— a year ago

Ira, Severn and 9 others liked this
Tom Casagrande

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Thanks for the informative note!

La Ginestra

Sant' Ellero Bianco Trebbiano - Chardonnay Blend 2018

It may lead with VA and reduction but that animal energy—it’s a turn on, particularly once I braced myself and sipped and the acetaldehyde (bruised apples and hay anyone?) gave way to white peppered honeydew melon. Those tannins borne of skin contact hold you down in just the right way. It is kinetic. It is not elegant but brutally graceful in its irreverence. It cares not about you, but is so compelling you care not, you’re along for the ride. — 4 years ago

Daniel, barak heller and 13 others liked this
Ellen Clifford

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@Max Conrad my next article will be filled with suggestions!
Max Conrad

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Loved it
Ellen Clifford

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@Max Conrad oh you got to try it? Yay! Glad I didn’t steer you wrong...

Marchesi Antinori

Castello della Sala Bramìto Umbria Chardonnay 2019

Excellent Chardonnay from Italy- sans the tannins you may find in a Californian Chardonnay. In fact I prefer Chablis and don’t care for Californian Chardonnay but this is excellent - clean crisp, good grapefruit and lemon nuances — 4 years ago

Henry of Pelham Family Estate

Ontario Baco Noir 2020

This may be something of a guilty pleasure for me, as it seems that I am going decidedly against the grain by loving this one so much. I don't care though; this wine is just so soft and silky with a bounty of dark fruit, spice, and a bit of smoke. Just terrific. 100% Baco Noir. 6/5/22. — 3 years ago

Finca Decero

The Owl & The Dust Devil Remolinos Vineyard Malbec Blend 2015

May 30, 2021. Birthday weekend wine. Bought in a whim at Bordeaux blend special. Wow, did I get lucky. Full bodied. Black fruit, cocoa, leather. Beautiful integrated tannins. Lovely story, great wine. I need more of this. — 4 years ago

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin

Brut Rosé Champagne Blend

Some may find it wasteful — others, baller — others, don’t care either way. Making Aperol spritzes with VC rosé, why not. Got to celebrate the journey and that’s what we are doing today in Mt. Airy, Phila, PA, year of our lord 2021. Cheers to the amazing @Caroline Graham for going all the way. — 4 years ago

LM, Adam and 9 others liked this
Mike R

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Congrats and cheers

Chateau Montelena

The Montelena Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

Shay A
9.5

WNH Montelena Estate virtual tasting. Others represented were the ‘94 (evidently corked), ‘01, ‘03, ‘07, ‘15.

I may be an outlier here, but Montelena is one of the few wineries where I not only don’t care for them young, I just honestly don’t enjoy them at all (and that’s coming from someone who enjoys the likes of Myriad, Bevan, Rivers Marie, etc on the young side). For my preference, they are just so vastly better with 15+yrs of age to them. YMMV.

After standing this upright for about two weeks, I gave this about a 45min decant. Starting off fairly thin and having some funk to blow off, it really bulked up after an hour and a half. Dark ruby/tawny in the glass. Reminiscent of left bank Bordeaux (leather, herbs de Provence, only a hint of tobacco), but a sweet cherry liqueur and dried cranberry on the nose bring this back to possibly New World. On the palate it sports underripe and dried black cherries, red clay, cedar, bay leaf, and earthy tertiary notes. Gripping, tannic finish with balanced acidity. In harmony here. I’d say this likely has another 3-5yrs in this beautiful drinking window before evolving more.
— 4 years ago

Joshua, David and 50 others liked this
Hugh O'Riordan

Hugh O'Riordan

Good review
Neil Valenzuela

Neil Valenzuela

Wow! Cheers!
Bryan Kesting

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Nice wine, Shay

Ridge Vineyards

Monte Bello Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2004

Shared with close friends - everyone’s first Monte Bello, and a great one at that.

Took this bottle out to share at a local fine dining establishment, to pour it blind for our friends. Wrapped neatly in foil. We get seated and explain to our waiter. “The bottle MAY be a little bit older so take care with the cork,” I said, not wanting to give away the age to our friends. He proceeds to break the cork about halfway down, right through. No big deal. He’s a younger guy and I think a little flustered, he goes off to get assistance.

Comes back with another server. As the guy walks back up, I say “Thanks for helping us with our mystery bottle”, clueing him in on the idea that there’s a reason that we have it wrapped in foil. “Would have been nice to know it was an older vintage wine,” he replied brusquely. Ok… Server 2 digs around for a bit with an ah-so before punching the cork into the drink. Oh well. None of us are really phased by this, it happens.

They grab a strainer from the bar. Server 2 starts pouring at a decanter and immediately the first glass or so just goes everywhere on the table. I start to die inside. He remains silent. Gets on target with the rest of the bottle, finishing pouring, and says “Your 2004 Ridge Cabernet”, purposefully ruining the blind tasting, I guess. Walks away without another word, leaving his mortified coworker to clean up his mess and apologize.

This actually happened. On to the wine:

Beautiful medium opacity ruby with no browning.

Smells like a Pauillac on the nose. Blackcurrants, blackberry, black licorice, slight graphite, and damp tobacco. As the night goes on it reveals dill, vanilla, buttered toast, and slight dry woodsy notes.

The wine is surprisingly light in body, very much a claret. The tannins are silky, finely woven, and extremely integrated. The main thing we notice on the palate is that the wine is so perfectly integrated it is a little difficult to pull individual notes out of it. Expansive over the palate without being weighty. The finish is forever.

A memorable evening.
— 3 years ago

Linh TongSarah Riley
with Linh and Sarah
Sarah, Shay and 3 others liked this

Charles Smith

The Velvet Devil Washington State Merlot

“I am not drinking any f#<k*ng Merlot!”
OK go figure, easy drinking wine BUT has surprises. On swirl: rose petal red & thick legs. On nose: Strawberry field near the ocean in time converts to deep Raspberry with hints on baked crumble spices. On taste: Abundance of Strawberry then surprise! Tingling in mouth of cola characteristics followed by hints of oak, leather & ends satisfying length of chocolate syrup. This may sound like a teenager loose in the kitchen but it worked with savoury roast beef🍷
— 4 years ago

Larmandier-Bernier

Terre de Vertus Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Champagne 1er Cru Chardonnay 2012

James Bond may have been right about many things, but he was never more wrong than when he proscribed serving champagne at or below 38° Fahrenheit; failure to do so being the equivalent of “listening to the Beatles without earmuffs.” This is a lovely champagne from a fabulously slutty vintage—chalky creaminess underpinned by zinging acidity & firm structure. With a little time and care—and without much coaxing, great sensual pleasure can be had—something I think even Bond would bend his rule for. — 4 years ago

Alsu Shakirova
with Alsu
Severn, Lyle and 13 others liked this
Peter van den Besselaar

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Fine description...