My Second Encounter with Clos de Tart
The first time I drank Clos de Tart was a 1999 vintage. Back then, I knew nothing about this vineyard. The wine was opened too briefly—still tight and unyielding, with a bold, muscular structure and tannins that felt a bit harsh. It wasn’t to my taste, so I soon forgot about it.
This time, I stumbled upon a 1990 vintage by chance. The label was slightly worn, but the fill level was perfect. After 30 minutes of decanting, the aromas began to emerge. By the two-hour mark, a distinct ‘rouge fragrance’drifted from the bottle—a scent often mentioned by friends who’ve drunk Jayer’s wines. I’d never experienced it myself until now.
The perfume was utterly enchanting:not overpowering, but a delicate, vintage rouge—like a blend of snow cream and the subtle powder used by women in the Republican era. It was neither vulgar nor overly flamboyant, but perfectly ambiguous, lingering on the edge of allure. Captivated, I sourced more bottles of this vintage, eager to see how the next one might unfold.
I saved a third of the bottle for the next day. While the fragrance had faded, the wine held its structure beautifully—a testament to its aging potential. This vintage is drinking flawlessly now.
On the palate, it was luxuriously rich, with a body that defied its age. The color, still a deep ruby with hints of red fruit, could pass for a 20-year-old wine. Notes of cherry, raspberry, preserved fruit, rose, and a touch of hawthorn candy’s sweet-tartness unfolded in layers. The balance was impeccable—like a hidden garden within a Suzhou courtyard, blooming in quiet harmony. The finish carried a clean, lingering sweetness.
This wine was so hauntingly beautiful that it inspired me to write my first-ever tasting note—lest I forget its magic. — 10 hours ago
When I taste a wine like this my first reaction is why am I not drinking more Chablis. Opened and the race was on. The quintessential grand cru Chablis. Never stopped putting on weight and complexity . Plenty of life ahead — 24 days ago
A pristine bottle tonight, and I particularly love the vintage for the producer, as it captures the perfect balance of richness and focus. It’s exceptionally detailed, powerful and layered with lemon cream pie-white flower aromatics with a deep, creamy and mineral inflicted palate. In top shape, and may even outlast the surrounding 10/12 vintages which are almost always premoxed. — 8 days ago
Nice soft Apple and apricot jam with very light vanilla but not too intense in terms of oak. Light. Lovely. — 6 days ago
Opened and decanted hours prior to dinner; enjoyed over the course of a couple hours. The 1989 appears a deep garnet color with a near opaque core; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is vinous with notes of tart, ripe, and dried fruits: cassis, blackberries, black cherry, black plum, tobacco, Poblano pepper, mixed dried flowers, some cocoa, pencil shavings, dried green herbs, a touch of leather, some organic and gravelly earth and fine warm spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin (integrated) and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. Fabulous stuff with plenty of fuel left in the tank. Drink now through 2039. — 14 days ago
Andrew Cullimore
Quite light straw . Very complex and taut on the nose , with crushed shells , touch of honied citrus fruits , gun flint , green apple , camomile . On the palate this is very mineral and intense with chalk dust and citrus , apple peel , really long and mineral . Good volume but really excellent balance . Perfect fresh acidity, and saline mineral intensity on the finish . Really young still but so good at the moment , though will continue on like this , probably improving for a further decade at least . Restaurant Drouant , Paris . — 2 days ago